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Mini tutorial - Blanket stitch embroidery
How to sew blanket stitch
This is part of a series of mini-tutorials about embroidery stitches, I am doing to coincide with the launch of my "sew-it-yourself" craft kits (available on Etsy and Folksy).
See my embroidery 101 post for an introduction to embroidery and useful general tips, plus links to all the stitch specific tutorials as I create them.
Sewing a row of blanket stitches
1 - The starting stitch
Thread your needle with your chosen thread, knotted at the end to stop it pulling through the fabric. With
the knot at the back of the fabric, make a single stitch, the size you want the side
of your "box-leg" to be. I find it easier to start from top and stitch
down to the bottom of the leg.
Bring the needle back to the front of the work at the top of the leg, and pull the thread through until it is taut.
2 - Create the first "loop"
Move
to the right (or left if you prefer) the same distance as the length of
your first stitch, and create the other side of the box. Although this
appears as a "downwards leg" in the finished stitch, you actually push
the needle upwards through the fabric.
Ensure the thread is laid
behind the needle as it comes out at the top. Pull the needle through
smoothly - as you do this the thread will form a loop.
Continue
pull the thread through until the thread all sits flat on the fabric
and forms the classic 3-sided "box" shape of blanket stitch. Make sure
the stitch is gently taut but don't pull the thread too tight or the
fabric will pucker and the box will look distorted. If this happens, use
the blunt end of the needle to loosen the stitch a bit before you
continue.
3 - Repeat.....
Moving in the same
direction, repeat the looping stitch to create a row of blanket
stitches. Try to keep your stitches the same size, both in height and
spacing.
You now have a row of 3 sided boxes - they look a bit like connected "m"s.
If you are sewing in the middle of a piece of fabric, blanket stitch looks different from the back - you will just see vertical lines. If you are sewing around the outside, the stitch wraps itself around, with the vertical legs showing on both sides and the top stitch along the edge.
4 - Finishing off your stitching
At the end of your row, push the needle through the fabric to the back, very close to the top of the final stitch.
If you are sewing all the way
round a shape and have come back to the beginning, move your needle
over and push it through at the top of the first stitch instead - this
way the boxes look continuous. (See the heart photo at the top of the page.)
From the back, secure
your stitching with a small over stitch or weave your thread a few times
through the back of the stitches.
See my Embroidery 101 post for more info on finishing stitches
Turning corners with blanket stitching
It is easy to turn a corner with blanket stitch, by changing where the entry or exit point of the needle goes to create angled side stitches.
External angles
As you go round the corner, put the the needle into the same starting point of each stitch but keep the exit point the same top stitch width.
This
creates a triangular shape - as you do this in both both sides of the
corner you will get a box with a diagonal line. You can see how I am
using it for the bottom point of the heart.
Internal angles
This time, use the normal starting point of each stitch but angle the needle so it exits at the internal corner each time.
This
creates a starburst effect - with 2 or 3 (or more) stitches depending
on the steepness of the angle. You can see how I've used 3 stitches
here where the curves of the heart meet in an internal point.
It
looks best if external corner stitches start the same distance from the
corner as your other stitches, and internal corners start at the
internal point. With practice you get used to thinking ahead and
marginally adjusting the last few stitches so you land in the right
place.
Blanket stitching curves
As the photo above illustrates, blanket stitch can easily be sewn into a curved line.
You do this by adjusting the angle you place the needle so that each stitch is off-square, but keep them broadly perpendicular to the curved edge so the stitches still appear box-like. Keep the width of the stitch the same.
If
you want your curve to go up, you shift your entry and exit point of
the needle up a bit - but at the same time you angle the the top of the
needle inwards so the distance between the bottom of the side stitches
is slightly wider than the top stitch.
To curve down, angle the top point outwards so the bottom of the side stitches are closer to each other than the top stitch, while also shifting the needle down a little.
How much of an angle depends on how quickly the shape curves, and your stylistic choice. The rabbit shape below is a good example of this.
For
gentle curves, such as the rabbit's back, my stitches have barely
noticible angle changes and the boxes still look square-ish. Sharper
curves (for example round his neck or under his front paws) needed a
bigger angle change making the boxes more trapeziod.
For the
really pointy tip of his ears and the corners of his paws I used the
external corner triangular method. I did this this on the front of his face too -
it give the impression of his pointy little nose and whiskers!
Want to know more?
To find out more about blanket stitch and how it can be used, you may also want to read my post on using blanket stitch for applique and decorative impact.
I hope this is useful, and I'd love to hear from you about the things you've made after reading this tutorial.
Please also reach out to me if you don't understand anything here. It's easy for me to write about things that I do all the time, without realising that it isn't as clear as I think it is!
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